The Basics of Wiring For Outlets
Turning on a lamp or microwave is an everyday thing that most homeowners take for granted. But there's a lot that goes on behind the scenes to make those appliances work.
To check that your outlets are working properly, put a voltage probe into each outlet's vertical slot (red in small, black in larger). You should get a reading of 110-120 volts.
Wire Gauge
Whether you’re doing new construction or rewiring outlets as part of a remodel, you must choose the proper wire gauge for the job. A wire’s gauge is a measurement of its thickness, and it determines the amount of current it can safely handle. Wires are labeled with their gauge, and the lower the number, the thinner the wire. Using a smaller gauge wire where a larger one is needed can cause the wire to fail or even start an electrical fire.
The most common residential electrical wires are 14 and 12-gauge. Each gauge is designed for a specific circuit amp. For example, you should use 14-gauge wire for a 15-amp circuit and 12-gauge wire for 20-amp circuits.
You can usually tell the amperage of a circuit by looking at the breaker’s handle. However, if you’re not sure, it’s best to consult Electrician Burbank.
In general, a higher amperage circuit requires thicker wires to handle more current. But there are a lot of variables that affect the size of a wire. Other factors include the type of metal the wire is made of, its length, and the distance it has to travel. When a current is forced to travel long distances, it encounters resistance that can reduce its flow and make the wire hot. This resistance is measured in ohms per mile. Wires with a high resistance are referred to as stiff, while wires with low resistance are considered flexible. The wire gauge you select will depend on all of these factors. The thicker the wire, the less resistance it has. This makes it more durable and safe. If you’re building a new house or remodeling your old home, a professional electrician can help you decide which wire size is right for your project.
Wire Length
The length of wire you need will depend on the number and type of outlets in the circuit, the total amperage, and the distance between them. It is important to have enough wire to reach the outlet without overextending or creating a tripping hazard. It is also important to use the longest length possible to help reduce voltage drop, especially on long runs.
A common rule of thumb is to run 14-gauge wire for outlets on a 15 amp circuit and 12-gauge wire for outlets on a 20 amp circuit. This will give you enough power to operate most devices in your home, but it won’t allow you to run window AC units or other high-powered appliances. If you decide to upgrade your circuit to 20 amps, you’ll need to remove the existing 14-gauge wiring and install new 12 gauge wire.
When you’re shopping for electrical wire, look for the label that states how thick it is. The first number is the gauge and the second number indicates how many hot wires are in the cable. For example, 12/2 wire has two 12 gauge wires while 12/3 wire has three.
You can also use a voltage drop calculator online to determine the appropriate wire size for your project. It’s important to note that some non-copper wires such as aluminum may require a different gauge than copper wires.
When making a wire connection, it’s important to ensure that the terminal screw is firmly holding the wire in place. The screw head should be positioned in a clockwise direction so that it will close the loop of wire and keep it from loosening over time. Professional electricians and knowledgeable DIYers almost always use screw terminal connections rather than push-fit connectors because they are more durable.
Neutral Wire
The neutral wire is white or gray, and it carries the current back to its original power source. This completes the circuit and allows electricity to flow through it without building up any excess voltage. In most cases, the neutral wire is connected to a grounding rod or busbar at both the circuit breaker panel on the consumer side and the breaker box on the supplier side. This ensures that any faulty currents will be diverted away from you and your appliances to the ground.
Most electrical projects involving outlets and switches are relatively simple, but they do require some basic knowledge of wiring. The most important thing is to make sure that the wires are properly connected and that the project is safe.
If you're replacing a single-pole outlet, the job is fairly easy: loosen the screws on the existing outlet and pull the wires out (assuming they don't come out on their own). Next, use screwdriver to loosen the screws holding the sheathing on the new outlet and remove it. Next, strip the black and white wires down to their sheathing and use a pair of wire strippers to cut them about 5/8 inch from each end. Now you can connect the pigtails to the proper terminals on the outlet.
If you're adding a light switch to an existing outlet, the process is a little more involved. First, make sure the breaker is turned off before you do anything. Now, use a voltmeter to test all of the wires to see if they're carrying any current. If you find that one of the two black wires is still carrying a live current, shut off the breaker and follow the steps above to replace the receptacle.
Hot Wire
If you are rewiring an outlet, it is important to know which wires carry electricity and how to tell them apart. Knowing the difference between black and white wires will help you avoid making a mistake that could result in a fire or electrocution. The black wire, or hot wire, carries electricity from the circuit to the light fixture or switch. The white wire, or neutral, takes any unused electricity back to the circuit.
It is essential to make sure that the power is off before you start working on any electrical wiring. This can be done by turning off the breaker at your home’s electrical panel for the circuit that leads to the outlet you are working on. You can also place a piece of tape over the switch associated with that circuit to prevent someone from accidentally flipping it on again. It is also a good idea to use a voltage tester to ensure that the power is completely disconnected.
When you are ready to work on the new outlet, carefully feed it through an opening in a wall or a plastic electrical box that is labeled “old work” or “rework.” It should be fed all the way in so that only about 1 inch of sheathing remains inside the box.
Next, strip the ends of the white and black wires in the cable by using wire strippers. Cut a 6- to 7-inch length from the sheathing, then strip about 5/8 inch of the end of each wire so that you have a hook shape at each end. The black wire will go on the brass screw terminal and the white pigtail will go on the silver terminal, which is for neutral.
Ground Wire
The ground wire is one of the most important elements in your electrical system. It helps to prevent fires and injuries by redirecting excess electricity during a surge to the ground instead of your house's walls or ceilings. It also reduces the risk of a shock from cord plug prongs that aren't fully inserted into the outlet.
Most homes have a grounding system, but if yours doesn't, it's easy to add. The grounding prong is the third slot on a plug; it looks like a round loop and should be attached to the grounding screw in the outlet's box. You'll also need a grounding rod connected to your home's main circuit box.
If you're replacing an outlet or adding a USB wall outlet to your home, it's best to hire an electrician to ensure the project is done correctly. However, there are some simple electrical repairs and upgrades that can be handled by budget-minded do-it-yourselfers who take the proper safety precautions.
Electricity comes from a service panel along the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires to outlets, switches, lights and other fixtures. Each outlet's brass terminal connects to the hot wire, and its silver terminal connects to the neutral wire.
Whether you're connecting the first outlet in a new circuit or replacing a damaged receptacle, you should always use pigtail wires if there is more than one cable in the outlet box. These are short lengths of the same type of NM (nonmetallic) wire that you cut from scrap cable and strip with wire cutters. Installing a pigtail lets you connect the receptacle's grounding screw without having to strip the ends of the other two wires and make individual connections.
Turning on a lamp or microwave is an everyday thing that most homeowners take for granted. But there's a lot that goes on behind the scenes to make those appliances work. To check that your outlets are working properly, put a voltage probe into each outlet's vertical slot (red in small, black in larger). You…